Author Topic: Bush Baby PSK Sheath Plans and Tutorial (Read 33086 times)

PetrifiedWood · « **on:** February 09, 2012, 05:58:53 PM »

Ok, I promised a Sheath Tutorial soon and I have also been hinting at a cool sheath for the Bush Baby PSK for a while now. I also promised to share the pattern with you guys, so here it is!

There is a direct link to the image here:

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg599/bladesandbushcraft/Zeus/bushbabysheathtemplate-1.jpg

You'll want to make 3 copies of this template. Use the red line at the top of the template to adjust your printer settings until the red line is exactly 5 inches long. Then, your pattern will be scaled correctly.

Once you have three properly scaled copies, you'll need to cut out three separate templates for the front, back, and welt.

I'll continue to update this thread with the construction of the sheath as time allows.

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #1 on:** February 09, 2012, 06:10:25 PM »

Ok, so the first thing you will want to do is paste the paper to something a little more rigid. I like to use manila folders. Then, cut out your three templates.

Use the templates and a pencil to transfer the pattern to the leather, and cut it out.

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #2 on:** February 09, 2012, 09:50:57 PM »

Ok, next step is to "case" the leather, moistening it with a sponge. Then I like to use the spoon attachment on a stitching groover to mark my stitching line.

Then I switch over to the groover blade.

And go over the line I marked.

Repeat this process, a little bit inside of the stitch groove.

Then using a straight edge and your stylus, mark a line down the center of the sheath inside the outline.

Use this line as a diagonal guide to align the opposite corners of your basket weave stamp.

Here you can see how the corners align.

Stamp your way down the line, placing the corner "bar" of the stamp in the previous stamp's corner bar impression.

Using that first line as a guide, fill in the pattern as close to the edges as you can without going over.

Get out a small "camouflage" tool.

Stamp around the border.

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #3 on:** February 09, 2012, 11:26:19 PM »

Next you will need an edge beveling tool to stamp around the border to smooth things out a bit.

Casing it again to keep it damp.

Mark stitching holes with overstitch wheel.

I like to go back over them with a stylus to deepen the marks.

Next we will bevel the edge on both side of the top part of the sheath.

And slick the beveled edge using your circle edge slicker.

We who are about to dye, salute you!

But first, bevel both sides of the strap up to where the front of the sheath and welt will attach, and slick them as well.

Transfer the snap location through the template using the stylus.

After dyeing both sides of the back and front of the sheath, apply some gum tragacanth to the exposed flesh side, and slick it down with a folder.

Apply barge cement to both sides of the leather to be joined. So that means the inside of both front and back pieces, and both sides of the welt.

Wait ten minutes, then stick the two pieces together. No clamping needed. it will grab immediately.

Now we drill through the glued sheath everywhere we marked a stitch hole.

Then flip the sheath and connect the dots with the stitching groover.

Needles and artificial sinew for saddle stitching.

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #4 on:** February 09, 2012, 11:35:27 PM »

Now it's stitched. Finish it off with three back stitches and trim the sinew off close.

Test fitting the knife.

Punch a hole for the snap base where you marked earlier.

This is the neat trick I was talking about...

Ill finish the edges and get some nice pictures tomorrow, along with carry options.

The Infidel · « **Reply #5 on:** February 10, 2012, 12:40:11 AM »

Love the retention idea. The tooling isnt bad either. :

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #6 on:** February 10, 2012, 12:46:00 AM »

Quote from: The Infidel on February 10, 2012, 12:40:11 AM

Love the retention idea. The tooling isnt bad either. :

Heh, thanks man! It will look better in the sunlight.

Dano · « **Reply #7 on:** February 10, 2012, 04:50:29 AM »

Love that retention idea, that's really cool!!

What brand is your overstitch wheel and is it a 5? I really like the clean points on it, mine is very subdued (discount from Tandy).

madmax · « **Reply #8 on:** February 10, 2012, 05:36:25 AM »

Excellent tut! Really easy to follow along. Somewhere down the line I'ld like to see more on the "embossing" (think that's right) tool work. I'm really weak on that. Thanks!

greyhound352 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 10, 2012, 07:19:23 AM »

Thanks for the tutorial and now I see why the hole on the end of the knife was larger, great idea.

trentu · « **Reply #10 on:** February 10, 2012, 07:30:48 AM »

I like how you thought out the spacing so you basket weave came out even. Nice job.

MATT CHAOS · « **Reply #11 on:** February 10, 2012, 10:08:13 AM »

You kill me with the way you make sheath making look so easy especially with that really perfect basket weave leatherwork.

So when will you have 3 ready for sale? hehe

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #12 on:** February 10, 2012, 10:52:27 AM »

The overstitch wheel is a Tandy, but it's about 17 years old so maybe the subbed with a different manufacturer back then. Thanks for the comments! After I get caught up I'll get the rest of the build documented.

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #13 on:** February 10, 2012, 03:34:19 PM »

Moving right along...

Here you can see the edges have been sanded on a belt sander. You can also carefully shave them with a sharp knife until they are even, then sand them by hand.

Next, I'm going to use the edge beveler again to go over any sharp edges and corners. I've also punched the holes marked on the template for 550 cord.

This is the edge after dying with a Q-Tip. I've coated it in gum tragacanth, and have been burnishing it with my nylon folder.

Now to apply the edge dressing.

Followed by the finish coat, " Tandy Super Shene". I use a wool dauber to apply it.

Don't worry. It goes on white but dries clear.

Here's some 550 cord wrapped through the sheath. You could wear it on your belt using this as a belt loop.

Finally, some beauty shots in the light of day!

As you can see from the last photo, the sheath is definitely ambidextrous. the cool thing about this design is that it can be adapted to fit an ESEE Izula, or a Becker ESKABAR with a few adjustments to the dimensions, so long as the hole in the tang is large enough to pass the snap you use for the retention strap.

If you make one of these, post pics!

Red · « **Reply #14 on:** February 10, 2012, 04:16:58 PM »

wow!! someone was super busy today!!! looks great PW!! and the tutorial is super easy to follow

Fire Steel 703 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 10, 2012, 04:28:31 PM »

Reallyyyyyy nice work.

MATT CHAOS · « **Reply #16 on:** February 10, 2012, 05:19:06 PM »

I think I am going to make a few of these before I make a sheath for the Bushpick that I have. I really like that sheath and that retention idea is awesome. You seam to come up with some ingenious ideas in your products. I need to get a few supplies but I will be doing this before too long.

Remo007 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 10, 2012, 07:45:05 PM »

Boy, That was Oh So Cool!!!

Great Stuff & Super Tutorial!

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #18 on:** February 10, 2012, 07:48:17 PM »

Thanks all. I haven't tried it on an Izula yet but there's a chance that it might fit without modification. I'll try it out sometime soon.

Wilderbeast · « **Reply #19 on:** February 10, 2012, 07:50:07 PM »

Would it fit a prototype bush baby?

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #20 on:** February 10, 2012, 07:58:49 PM »

Quote from: Wilderbeast on February 10, 2012, 07:50:07 PM

Would it fit a prototype bush baby?

This particular sheath would not fit your blade. Prototype and all...

But with a smaller diameter snap and a little fancy stitching I think a modified sheath would work. Or, if your knife is still "like new" I can exchange it for an updated one.

Wilderbeast · « **Reply #21 on:** February 10, 2012, 08:36:47 PM »

Quote from: PetrifiedWood on February 10, 2012, 07:58:49 PM

Quote from: Wilderbeast on February 10, 2012, 07:50:07 PM
Would it fit a prototype bush baby?

This particular sheath would not fit your blade. Prototype and all...

But with a smaller diameter snap and a little fancy stitching I think a modified sheath would work. Or, if your knife is still "like new" I can exchange it for an updated one.

Creek is currently in posession of the proto bush baby and will be testing it soon. It will not be in "like new" condition when he is done. :o

I appreciate the exchange offer but I like the little guy too much to exchange it. I'm thinking of putting scales on mine and a deep pouch sheath for pocket carry. I may "need" a second production model with your sheath, it's elegant.

MATT CHAOS · « **Reply #22 on:** February 10, 2012, 08:43:08 PM »

What about my 3 bush babies? Or are mine too close to the prototype, too?

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #23 on:** February 10, 2012, 09:11:35 PM »

Quote from: Wilderbeast on February 10, 2012, 08:36:47 PM

Quote from: PetrifiedWood on February 10, 2012, 07:58:49 PM
Quote from: Wilderbeast on February 10, 2012, 07:50:07 PM
Would it fit a prototype bush baby?

This particular sheath would not fit your blade. Prototype and all...

But with a smaller diameter snap and a little fancy stitching I think a modified sheath would work. Or, if your knife is still "like new" I can exchange it for an updated one.

Creek is currently in posession of the proto bush baby and will be testing it soon. It will not be in "like new" condition when he is done. :o

I appreciate the exchange offer but I like the little guy too much to exchange it. I'm thinking of putting scales on mine and a deep pouch sheath for pocket carry. I may "need" a second production model with your sheath, it's elegant.

No problem. When you're ready, let me know and I'll put you down for one.

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #24 on:** February 10, 2012, 09:12:51 PM »

Quote from: MATT CHAOS on February 10, 2012, 08:43:08 PM

What about my 3 bush babies? Or are mine too close to the prototype, too?

If they have a 5/8" rear tang hole they should be good to go for the sheath design. Lemme go look at the pic you posted and I'll tell you.

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #25 on:** February 10, 2012, 09:14:03 PM »

Yep, looks like they will fit no problem.

MATT CHAOS · « **Reply #26 on:** February 11, 2012, 07:23:22 AM »

Thanks for checking!

rogumpogum · « **Reply #27 on:** February 11, 2012, 10:25:50 AM »

That is probably one of the best sheath making tutorials I have ever, ever seen.

Remo007 · « **Reply #28 on:** February 11, 2012, 12:18:23 PM »

Quote from: pickledpinecone on February 11, 2012, 10:25:50 AM

That is probably one of the best sheath making tutorials I have ever, ever seen.

NOW to just get a Bush Baby to build one of those Sheaths for!!!

Dano · « **Reply #29 on:** February 12, 2012, 04:10:38 PM »

Great tutorial PW, thanks for posting it for us!!

With an added welt, could you use the rounded part of the burnishing tool, or is it too thick? I've seen different thicknesses listed on those.

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #30 on:** February 12, 2012, 04:21:17 PM »

It's too thick, probably about a half inch or so with the three layers. I just used the flat part of the burnisher and kept the edges flat, with the very slight round-over from the edge beveler.

warren bond · « **Reply #31 on:** March 30, 2012, 01:08:48 PM »

Very nice mate, thanks for tutorial

Wood Trekker · « **Reply #32 on:** March 30, 2012, 01:16:24 PM »

That is so cool! Thanks.

upthecreek · « **Reply #33 on:** March 30, 2012, 03:19:53 PM »

I'm not sure how I missed the sheath tute. Great job PW. I'm going to try and weasel the beast proto bushbaby from him when I go visit!

PetrifiedWood · « **Reply #34 on:** March 30, 2012, 03:29:45 PM »

Thanks guys!

Quote from: upthecreek on March 30, 2012, 03:19:53 PM

I'm not sure how I missed the sheath tute. Great job PW. I'm going to try and weasel the beast proto bushbaby from him when I go visit!

Creek, the prototype knife has a smaller hole in the tang, so you will need to use a smaller diameter snap.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/1250-04.aspx

The ones at the above link should work. Also, they do not leave as much space between them as the line 24 snaps, so you might need to stack a small round disk of leather on the retention strap to allow the snap to close.