Author Topic: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?  (Read 13240 times)

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Offline JTD

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Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« on: October 07, 2013, 03:29:42 PM »
I'd like to get a bit more serious about making knifes, and I'm going to start piecing together a shop.  I've played around with small scale forging (and still will), but stock removal is what I'd like to pursue.  The two big purchases I'm looking to make are on a belt grinder and kiln.  Any recommendations or advise would be great.
 
   


Offline crashdive123

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2013, 06:30:02 PM »
This is a bit older and I've added a few things but it will give you an idea of what I use.


Offline Mikewood

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Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2013, 06:37:54 PM »
For stock removal you first have to decide how you want to remove the stock and how much you need to remove. If you are working a 3-4" blade of 1/8" stock you can easily do it with a 1-30 belt sander from harbor freight. If you want to handle 6" plus 1/4 thick knives consider working them down with a angle grinder and finishing them out on the 1-30. Sure you can buy a 2" sander but that's major cash.


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Offline Draco

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2013, 06:50:08 PM »
Or you can make a no weld 2 inch belt grinder as others here have done. 

http://bladesandbushcraft.com/index.php/topic,6914.0.html


Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2013, 06:50:33 PM »
Thanks crashdive.  Are most of your belt grinders home made?   

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2013, 06:56:46 PM »
For stock removal you first have to decide how you want to remove the stock and how much you need to remove. If you are working a 3-4" blade of 1/8" stock you can easily do it with a 1-30 belt sander from harbor freight. If you want to handle 6" plus 1/4 thick knives consider working them down with a angle grinder and finishing them out on the 1-30. Sure you can buy a 2" sander but that's major cash.


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I'd like to make everything from 5"+.  I've made a few knives, modded others with an angle grinder/1x30 harbor freight/bench grinder.  I'd like to move up to something bigger.

   

   

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #6 on: October 07, 2013, 07:00:27 PM »
Or you can make a no weld 2 inch belt grinder as others here have done. 

http://bladesandbushcraft.com/index.php/topic,6914.0.html

Ya Draco, I seen backwoodsamericans thread.. That thing looks awesome.  I honestly don't think I could put one of those together.  I would love too, but I think premade is more suitable for my abilities.   :-[   

Offline Draco

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #7 on: October 07, 2013, 07:21:46 PM »
Or you can make a no weld 2 inch belt grinder as others here have done. 

http://bladesandbushcraft.com/index.php/topic,6914.0.html

Ya Draco, I seen backwoodsamericans thread.. That thing looks awesome.  I honestly don't think I could put one of those together.  I would love too, but I think premade is more suitable for my abilities.   :-[   

I don't want to try to talk you into anything you don't want to do but I will say it is just cutting square tubing to length and the ability to thread with a tap.  If you don't know how to cut threads it is a good skill to learn and not really very hard.  If I can make one anyone can. :)   

Offline PetrifiedWood

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #8 on: October 07, 2013, 10:23:36 PM »
Budget and space-wise the Grizzly knife grinder is a decent choice if you dont mind tweaking it a bit and making your own upgrade parts. But if money is no object I'd get a wilmont.

For the kiln I really like my evenheat. Get one longer than you think you will ever need because one day you will get the itch to make a sword. ;)

Offline crashdive123

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #9 on: October 08, 2013, 03:57:54 AM »
Thanks crashdive.  Are most of your belt grinders home made?   

The Wilton is not, and the other was put together by somebody else.

For knife making, a 2X72 is pretty much the standard.  Sure, you can use other types, but if you plan on moving metal on a regular basis get a 2X72.  PW suggested the Grizzly.  I have to second that suggestion.  The Grizzly was my first grinder and worked great.  I'd recommend getting the 10" wheel along with it to make things a little easier for you.

Here's a review I did of my Grizzly.  If my shop was bigger I would still own it.


Offline crashdive123

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #10 on: October 08, 2013, 04:02:55 AM »
I should add - the Grizzly is priced low (now going for about $525 I think) - The extra wheel (comes with an 8") is around $75 - and then shipping (freight).

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #11 on: October 08, 2013, 05:37:32 AM »
Thanks crashdive, that video was pretty helpful.  That 2x72 grizzly looks like a great grinder.  Do you use a 10" wheel for hollow grinds only?     
PW what did you have to make for yours?

As for Kilns, Jantz has the 22.5" KF series Evenheat, also a 24" Paragon that is in the max price range I'd like to spend.  They would need to be 240 hardwired, but I can do that.

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #12 on: October 08, 2013, 05:45:29 AM »
Or you can make a no weld 2 inch belt grinder as others here have done. 

http://bladesandbushcraft.com/index.php/topic,6914.0.html

Ya Draco, I seen backwoodsamericans thread.. That thing looks awesome.  I honestly don't think I could put one of those together.  I would love too, but I think premade is more suitable for my abilities.   :-[   

I don't want to try to talk you into anything you don't want to do but I will say it is just cutting square tubing to length and the ability to thread with a tap.  If you don't know how to cut threads it is a good skill to learn and not really very hard.  If I can make one anyone can. :)

I'm still up in the air on making one.  I have Wayne Goddard's book; $50 Knife Shop.  There are a few diagrams on grinders similar to that 2x72 Grizzly, but I'm just worried that I'd line it up wrong and it would just throw belts..     

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #13 on: October 08, 2013, 06:16:30 AM »
I found another good instructional for building a belt grinder.
http://ftpforge.chez-alice.fr/backstand_english.pdf

Seems like the designs are infinite...   
http://www.homemadetools.net/tag/belt-grinder-1

Its kinda confusing to my simple brain.  I may just sell off a bunch of stuff to get a grizzly.

Offline crashdive123

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #14 on: October 08, 2013, 10:15:19 AM »
Thanks crashdive, that video was pretty helpful.  That 2x72 grizzly looks like a great grinder.  Do you use a 10" wheel for hollow grinds only?     
PW what did you have to make for yours?

As for Kilns, Jantz has the 22.5" KF series Evenheat, also a 24" Paragon that is in the max price range I'd like to spend.  They would need to be 240 hardwired, but I can do that.

I used the contact wheels for all of my grinding.  I do mostly hollow grinding still because I believe that if you can do that freehand and do it well, all grinds after that are a lot easier.

I also do all of my profiling on the contact wheel.  The 8" wheel works fine for that task.  I have profiled on the flat platten, but don't any longer - the contact wheel is much better IMO.

Here's a vid to show profiling - starts around 2:00.  Not on the Grizzly, but the technique is identical.



Here's another for profiling.


Offline PetrifiedWood

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #15 on: October 08, 2013, 11:28:43 AM »
Thanks crashdive, that video was pretty helpful.  That 2x72 grizzly looks like a great grinder.  Do you use a 10" wheel for hollow grinds only?     
PW what did you have to make for yours?

As for Kilns, Jantz has the 22.5" KF series Evenheat, also a 24" Paragon that is in the max price range I'd like to spend.  They would need to be 240 hardwired, but I can do that.

With the Grizz, you might need to add a few wraps of tape to the center of the tracking wheel to make the belt track straight when pressure is applied. Some of them track fine, others need a bit of tape. The tape works great and shows no signs of needing replacement after many belt changes.

The platen is covered with some adhesive backed graphite. This will last about 3 minutes and then you will need to replace it. To replace it, remove the graphite and then clean the platen well, and use some strong epoxy (I used JB Weld) to attach a ceramic glass platen liner from USA Knifemaker Supply. The glass is extremely hard and perfectly flat so it doesn't wear unevenly like the graphite (or even bare metal will eventually). You might want to add a brace to stiffen the platen on the grizz itself before gluing on the glass liner, because any flex in the platen when you tighten the bolts  will crack the glass liner.

And finally, the tool rest is pretty small on the grizz. I drilled 4 holes in mine and bolted a 4" wide, 18" long flat bar to it to give a nice big working surface.

The grizz has a pretty fast belt speed, and it is a single speed unit. Unless you are doing hollow grinds, I would actually stick with the smaller wheel. The larger drive (contact) wheel will increase the effective belt speed even more. I find the included wheel is the perfect size for making the inside curve on "coke bottle" knife handles. To aid in this, it's also a good idea to mount the grinder on the right edge of a work bench to allow the contact wheel to overhang the edge, allowing you more access.

Beyond that, there are other things you can do to modify the grinder, but at some point the cost and time put into modifying it might mean you are better off buying a top end grinder if you haven't already invested in the Grizzly.

If you already have committed to a Grizz, you could get a shaft, some pillow blocks and pulleys, and offset the motor from the belt drive assembly. this would allow you to change speeds using a belt and pulleys, but depending on where you mount the motor, it might make it hard to access the buffing wheel. (Unless you make the shaft extend past the pulley far enough to install the buffing wheel on the new shaft.)

Upgrading the tool rest to a more "beefy" design is another project you might consider. The current one works fine, but it is a little "fiddly". And another project I had planned to do was to make a small "surface grinder" attachment that would use ball bearing drawer glides, a hinge, and a few other bits of hardware to allow you to slide a piece of stock along the contact wheel at an even distance in order to put a perfectly even finish on it. And with the correct angle wedges, you could do tapered tangs effortlessly.


Offline wolfy

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #16 on: October 08, 2013, 01:34:16 PM »
VERY helpful post, PW...Thank you!
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Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #17 on: October 08, 2013, 02:27:30 PM »
Thanks crashdive, and PW for passing along some knowledge.   

Crashdive,

That Milton is a grinding beast!  I was wondering why you didn't anneal the steel you where using prior to grinding since you have a kiln,  is it just coz that grinder can handle it?  Also do you test the hardness on your finished blades?

PW,

Thanks alot for all your info on the grizzly knife grinder.  I believe it should be fine for the blades I'd like to make, and your post points out alot of stuff that is helpful to know before purchase.
 
I'm gonna have a sell-a-thon soon.  First gotta re-setup paypal for taxes... after that I'm gonna save up for a kiln first, then a grizzly.

 
Where do you guys get your micarta, steel, and belts?  Jantz is the first place I looked.


Today I had off, and have spends large blocks of time watching youtube videos, and reading..

I gotta say I really dug Gough Customs videos.  Especially how he explains, and shows making knives with common tools.
 


Not to completely derail my own thread, but there is a good video on him testing knife steal in case you haven't seen it.     
   

Thanks for all the replies guys,

JTD

Offline crashdive123

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #18 on: October 08, 2013, 05:56:38 PM »
Thanks crashdive, and PW for passing along some knowledge.   

Crashdive,

That Milton is a grinding beast!  I was wondering why you didn't anneal the steel you where using prior to grinding since you have a kiln,  is it just coz that grinder can handle it?  Also do you test the hardness on your finished blades? .......<snip>



The grinder will pretty much grind any steel - all of the bigger ones will.  I do go through belts faster if I don't anneal.  I'm annealing more and more, but there are a few materials I use that I cannot heat treat so I do not anneal them.  My oven only gets up to 2000 degrees (don't normally take it past 1900) and I recently picked up some cold cutting saw blades that would heat treat at 2350 if I were to anneal them.  As far as testing - I do test with a file and when trying a new steel/heat treat I will put a blade through some abuse to see how it performs.

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #19 on: October 09, 2013, 06:43:01 AM »
Thanks for explaining crashdive.  Makes alot of sense now.



     

Offline Elochoguy

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #20 on: October 09, 2013, 08:32:10 PM »
What a great thread!  Tons of stuff I never knew to ask...

Learning more and more everytime I come on here.   Thanks guys!

Offline PetrifiedWood

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #21 on: October 10, 2013, 05:02:44 PM »
I always look on Amazon for suppliers first, but I have a prime membership. They are sometimes more pricey on the steel, but when you figure in the free 2 day shipping it can end up being about the same.

I like USAKnifemaker.com for small stuff, G10 and micarta, hardware, kydex rivets, etc.

Tandy for all my leather supplies. I have a gold club membership there and it doesn't take much for it to pay for itself.

Offline crashdive123

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #22 on: October 10, 2013, 08:07:02 PM »
For me - other than re-purposing things like cloths, steels, etc. I get my leather from the local Tandy store.  For steel we make a run to the Orlando area every now and then to Sheffields (mostly a mail order place, but a couple of guys in our club are allowed in - I tag along).  For steel on line I like Jantz Supply and Steel Baron of NJ.  I get my belts from G. L. Pearce in Pennsylvania.

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #23 on: October 11, 2013, 08:31:56 PM »
Thanks guys.. I need to get some handle material.  Will check out those sites.

Offline crashdive123

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #24 on: October 12, 2013, 04:21:11 AM »
Thanks guys.. I need to get some handle material.  Will check out those sites.

Don't be in such a hurry to buy handle material.  Making your own, or re-purposing other "stuff" can not only save a lot of money, but be unique as well.  If you're into micarta - I've got a few vids that might help.

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #25 on: October 12, 2013, 11:24:36 AM »
I'm very much intrested in micarta. Will have to find your videos. 
I do have some blocks of wood I got from a bow making in MT, that I'll be re-purposing.  The only problem is its kind of pain cutting down scales with my little jigsaw.         

Offline crashdive123

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #26 on: October 12, 2013, 01:53:41 PM »
Here's a thread I did on paper micarta.  Burlap works pretty much the same, just don't need as many layers because of how thick it is.  http://bladesandbushcraft.com/index.php/topic,5793.0.html

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #27 on: October 22, 2013, 05:12:16 PM »
I've been doing a ton of research on grinders, forges, and kilns lately. I finally decided that for the money a DIY grinder may be my best for me.  I reread backwoodsamerican's NWG build quite a few times, and still think it may be a little to much for me to tackle.  The GIB looked like a very good alternative to the NWG.  Only thing is I don't really dig the 3/4 wheel grinders.  I like the 2 wheel vertical grinder, they seem alot simpler to me.  So something like a grizzly is what I'd like to make. 

I'm curious whats the benefit to a 3/4 wheel?     
     
             
« Last Edit: October 22, 2013, 05:17:44 PM by JTD »

Offline PetrifiedWood

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #28 on: October 22, 2013, 05:44:01 PM »
I think the more wheels, the better the belt tracks. Plus it allows the grinder to use less space in the shop.

Offline crashdive123

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #29 on: October 22, 2013, 06:26:50 PM »
I've been doing a ton of research on grinders, forges, and kilns lately. I finally decided that for the money a DIY grinder may be my best for me.  I reread backwoodsamerican's NWG build quite a few times, and still think it may be a little to much for me to tackle.  The GIB looked like a very good alternative to the NWG.  Only thing is I don't really dig the 3/4 wheel grinders.  I like the 2 wheel vertical grinder, they seem alot simpler to me.  So something like a grizzly is what I'd like to make. 

I'm curious whats the benefit to a 3/4 wheel?     
     
           

Assuming you do not have a speed controller ......... With a three wheel grinder you can change the size of your drive wheel to change the speed of your belt.  With a contact wheel attached to the motor the only way to change the speed is to change the size of the contact wheel - which will (depending on type of grind you're doing) change your grind profile.

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #30 on: October 22, 2013, 06:42:45 PM »
Okay cool.  Wasn't sure If I was missing something.  So a 2 wheel should be fine for me since I'm only looking to do scandi, flat, and convex grinds. 

I flipped back thru $50 Knife Shop,  the section on building grinders has some solid data on belts speeds.  So I'm just gonna go off that for belt speed/drive wheel diameters info.   

Thanks guys.       

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #31 on: October 30, 2013, 05:40:46 PM »
Since I decided to give making a grinder a shot, I've been dumpster diving mofo!   

So far (beyond steel) I've scavenged, 3 old tanks for forges, 2 new looking motors, some k12 saw parts, a few wheels, and an old school loaded nuts and bolts kit.  Not too shabby plunder!  Really hoping these motors work.. If anything would be easy to make them a buffer, and disc grinder.

The Loot:





 
TBC...
   

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #32 on: December 28, 2013, 11:34:39 AM »
With the Holiday season making knives has been on the back burner, but I've been checking craigslist often for anvils, forges, kilns, and finally grinders..

Well I found a heck of a deal on a grizzly I couldn't pass up, and had a sellathon to get it.  Heres a couple shots of it next to a Kalamazoo I got a month or so back as well.   




I still have plans for the spare motors.. I'm thinking maybe buffer, and disk grinder.  Still really need a big forge, or kiln, but my little tin can forge works for small blades. 

I noticed on alot of knife maker pictures a bucket of water below the makers belt grinder.  Is that for dust control? 

 

Offline Dano

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #33 on: December 28, 2013, 01:04:07 PM »
I use mine a bit for dust control, but mainly to catch the sparks because my shed is all wood and I don't want a fire...plus it's handy to dip the blade to cool it as you grind.....saves the fingertips LOL

Offline PetrifiedWood

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #34 on: December 28, 2013, 02:57:56 PM »
Yep, dust is a big deal, particularly when doing handles. I plan to put my grinder on a wheeled cart so it can be wheeled outside for doing handle work. I don't mind doing the metal grinding indoors. Wear a respirator for all of it, though. Not a "dust mask" but an actual respirator that seals against your face and has replaceable cartridges,. And if you sport a beard, keep it trimmed close so dust doesn't get in.

Offline crashdive123

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #35 on: December 29, 2013, 04:26:50 AM »
Everything in my shop is coated in one type of grind dust or another.  The bucket of water is only for cooling steel while grinding.

As a tip..........put a squirt of dish soap in your cooling bucket.  It breaks the surface tension of the water and all of your grind dust will sink rather than float and stick to your work as you cool it.

Some people like to mount a magnet below the work area to catch the metal dust.  I just sweep and use a dustpan when the grind dust gets so high on the floor that I can't climb over it to get to my grinder or when it covers enough thing that I can no longer find them. :lol:

Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #36 on: December 29, 2013, 07:49:45 AM »
Thanks  for the tips guys.  I did know it was for cooling the steel, but wasn't sure if having it right under the grinder was one of those "trade secrets" for catching sparks and dust.   
I just sweep and use a dustpan when the grind dust gets so high on the floor that I can't climb over it to get to my grinder or when it covers enough thing that I can no longer find them. :lol:
Sounds like a true knife maker there!  Sounds like you need a sup'd up leaf blower!   
Great tip about the soap crashdive.  I didn't know that.   
I have a bunch of spare magnets, but I can only imagine what kind of dust a 2x72 grinder will produce.  My 1x30 has left handle debris on everything in my garage.  I doubt the magnets would help much, but who knows might be worth a try.  If you noticed I put my grinders near my garage door, the idea was maybe I can put a fan behind me, and persuade some of the floaty particles out side.. that is until a big wind blows it all in onto my wife's side of the garage!  >:D .  I may have messed up b/c I pulled a 3/4hp motor off an industrial fan when I was trying to part together a grinder.  It would have blew everything outside.   :doh:         
PW - Right on about the respirator, I've grinded stuff a couple times without anything, and woke up the next day feeling like I smoked a cigar or something.
Luckily I was forced through a 3 day osha construction saftey class.. between sleeping, and wanting to stab myself with the pencil they gave me, I learned about the pointless-ness of dust masks.  Although the N-95 masks will stop about 95% of particles in the air, as long as it fits tight.  I use one of those outside when cutting.   Inside I got a $30 3m respirator. 

Offline crashdive123

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #37 on: December 29, 2013, 11:29:54 AM »
For the magnet thing........if you have a large one and can mount it below (safely) your work area about where the sparks fly you will save yourself a lot of cleanup.

A cautionary note though........while you are grinding, the dust does not know which side is yours and which side is hers.  Be careful or it will challenge your marital bliss. :duel:

I grabbed a magnet today to show you that with a lot of grinding, a smallish magnet may not be the ideal "weapon" for cleanup.  Click on the picture to play the vid.


Offline islandblacksmith

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #38 on: December 30, 2013, 02:42:27 PM »
yep, doing some extra work is better than spending extra cash, be it in making a tool yourself if possible, or just in doing things in a more labour intensive way to get started...and you might find you like some hand tools better than their noisy, dusty powered counterparts... (^__~)

keep things as simple as possible and just start making stuff, as you go you will find the things you really need and don't...if you tool up excessively first it's no joy to find you didn't need a couple grand worth of your new toys to make rad stuff...

...and start gettin' those 10,000 hours going! rock on.

Offline PetrifiedWood

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #39 on: January 04, 2014, 08:01:42 PM »
CD, that magnet reached it's capacity pretty quick! I guess cleanup using a broom is a better idea. Another thing worth noting, when the red hot sparks come off the blade while grinding, they might be non-magnetic due to their temperature, and it is only after they travel a few inches and cool a bit that they will stick.

I do remember grinding a knife one time with a magnet in my shirt pocket. I'd forgotten about it and had a surprising ball of metal dust on my shirt when I was done. :D

Offline woodsrunner

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #40 on: January 04, 2014, 08:27:33 PM »
With the Holiday season making knives has been on the back burner, but I've been checking craigslist often for anvils, forges, kilns, and finally grinders..

Well I found a heck of a deal on a grizzly I couldn't pass up, and had a sellathon to get it.  Heres a couple shots of it next to a Kalamazoo I got a month or so back as well.   




I still have plans for the spare motors.. I'm thinking maybe buffer, and disk grinder.  Still really need a big forge, or kiln, but my little tin can forge works for small blades. 

I noticed on alot of knife maker pictures a bucket of water below the makers belt grinder.  Is that for dust control? 

 
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Offline JTD

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #41 on: April 19, 2014, 11:42:25 AM »
Update.

As I mentioned in a few other post, I've had time to make my garage shop gain a little traction this past week.  Beyond building a forge, and testing some steel, I rebuilt some wood tables, put together a new rolling bench, positioned/bolted down my grinders, and new drill press, and kinda got everything about where I'd like it.  Not done by a long shot, but felt  really good getting some stuff done, and now I got space to work..     

Here's a few not so glam shots.  ;)










Offline crashdive123

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #42 on: April 19, 2014, 01:49:58 PM »
I see spare space.....you are not done yet.

J/K of course.  Looking forward to seeing how it works for you.

Offline PetrifiedWood

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #43 on: April 19, 2014, 03:49:21 PM »
Yep, looks like you are making good use of the available space and there is room for a bit more too.

Offline Sarge

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #44 on: April 19, 2014, 06:15:09 PM »
Looking good!


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Offline upthecreek

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #45 on: April 20, 2014, 06:59:35 PM »
Looking good JD! All progress is good and seems you've made quite a bit. Can't wait for the knife pics :)

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Offline homemadetools

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #46 on: October 26, 2017, 04:08:51 PM »
Hey guys - we have a new ebook out: How to Make a Belt Sander. 100% free of course. Click the graphic below to check it out:


« Last Edit: October 26, 2017, 11:08:09 PM by PetrifiedWood »

Offline PetrifiedWood

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Re: Stock Removal Knife Shop - What do I need?
« Reply #47 on: October 26, 2017, 11:08:59 PM »
Hey guys - we have a new ebook out: How to Make a Belt Sander. 100% free of course. Click the graphic below to check it out:

Nope. :mjolnir: