Author Topic: bee's wax and leather  (Read 350 times)

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Offline randyt

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bee's wax and leather
« on: April 30, 2017, 11:25:09 AM »
I've heard about hot waxing leather goods with bee's wax, I have a lot of bee's wax and have thought about this for a recent holster I made. It is a flap holster.  Any thoughts on what the benefits of hot waxing would be?

Offline wolfy

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Re: bee's wax and leather
« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2017, 12:25:41 PM »
Randy, since SnoSeal is a beeswax-based leather conditioner and 'waterproofer,' this page from their website may give you the answers to your questions.....

http://www.atsko.com/sno-seal-application-tips-and-instructions/

I use it on the leather shoulder straps on Duluth packs and knife sheaths, so they don't get limp......good stuff and WOLFY APPROVED!  :thumbsup:
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Offline hunter63

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Re: bee's wax and leather
« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2017, 04:09:55 PM »
Haven't done it my self....but have seen guys treat moccasins with it......

That site Wofly posted up for SnoSeal does mention a tip I got from guys there were using bees wax.....
As fars as I know,... that was just straight heated bees wax.

Quote>
Preheating leather to 110F to 125F causes Sno-Seal to melt instantly when it touches the surface of the leather so that it can easily penetrate. There is a subtle, but very important, difference between putting Sno-Seal on leather and then heating it, vs. putting it on leather that is already warm. Solvents evaporate toward a source of heat. So if Sno-Seal is applied and then heated, most of the solvent evaporates toward the hair dryer leaving the wax on top of the leather. On preheated boots, the solvent evaporates into the warm leather drawing the wax in with it.

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Offline randyt

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Re: bee's wax and leather
« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2017, 04:14:40 PM »
thanks for the comments fellas. Our friend trekon melts bee's wax down and submerges the finished leather goods right into it. I'm
 hoping he comes along and fills me in on it. I'm thinking it makes it kydex like but not sure.

Offline wolfy

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Re: bee's wax and leather
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2017, 04:53:02 PM »
thanks for the comments fellas. Our friend trekon melts bee's wax down and submerges the finished leather goods right into it. I'm
 hoping he comes along and fills me in on it. I'm thinking it makes it kydex like but not sure.

I don't think we have a member that calls himself 'trekon'.....you might be referring to 'trekster,' but I think he's been out trying to find someone who will buy $350 worth of magic beans that he keeps in an orange box. :shrug:
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Offline randyt

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Re: bee's wax and leather
« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2017, 04:59:12 PM »
You're right, I know him as Paul.

Offline crashdive123

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Re: bee's wax and leather
« Reply #6 on: April 30, 2017, 06:09:44 PM »
thanks for the comments fellas. Our friend trekon melts bee's wax down and submerges the finished leather goods right into it. I'm
 hoping he comes along and fills me in on it. I'm thinking it makes it kydex like but not sure.

I don't think we have a member that calls himself 'trekon'.....you might be referring to 'trekster,' but I think he's been out trying to find someone who will buy $350 worth of magic beans that he keeps in an orange box. :shrug:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Offline upthecreek

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Re: bee's wax and leather
« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2017, 10:54:31 AM »
I've treated several axe mask with heated bees wax and I was really happy with the result. I'm fixing to do the one I just made for the TT. I'll post the results.

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Offline Moe M.

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Re: bee's wax and leather
« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2017, 11:54:35 AM »
Haven't done it my self....but have seen guys treat moccasins with it......

That site Wofly posted up for SnoSeal does mention a tip I got from guys there were using bees wax.....
As fars as I know,... that was just straight heated bees wax.

Quote>
Preheating leather to 110F to 125F causes Sno-Seal to melt instantly when it touches the surface of the leather so that it can easily penetrate. There is a subtle, but very important, difference between putting Sno-Seal on leather and then heating it, vs. putting it on leather that is already warm. Solvents evaporate toward a source of heat. So if Sno-Seal is applied and then heated, most of the solvent evaporates toward the hair dryer leaving the wax on top of the leather. On preheated boots, the solvent evaporates into the warm leather drawing the wax in with it.

<quote

  Just a heads up about treatments that contain solvents being used on leather boots and shoes,  Snow Seal has been my go to leather and gear treatment for the last 50 years and remains so with the exception of my expensive outdoor leather footwear.
 I had two pairs of high end winter boots that failed,  the first was a pair of Browning hunting boots and the other was a pair of Carolina brand outdoor boots, both were insulated and water proof,  the Browning boots were a year old before I treated them with Snow Seal,  the Carolina boots has only been worn twice before the season ended,  I had treated them and stored them in my closet.
 When I next wore my Browning boots the following fall was for my first deer hunt of the season,  about three hours into my hunt I felt something funny about my right foot,  when I looked down at them I could see where the sole had pulled away from the boot at the heal and was flopping around as I walked,  I used a length of duck tape to patch them up until I could get back to camp for my other pair.
 A couple of years later the Carolina boots suffered the same fate,  those I sent back to the maker,  a week or so later the maker requested me to let them know if I has spilled any chemicals on them or treated them in any way,  so I wrote them back that I had used Snow Seal on them and used a hair dryer on them to melt the Snow Seal into the leather and the seams in the boots.
 Carolina replaced my boots and included a note about what caused them to fail,  they said it was the Solvents in the Snow Seal that reacted poorly with the adhesive they use to bond the sole to the body of their boots,  they also said that Snow Seal works well on the leather but that I may have been a little too free with it in the seam where the sole is mated to the boot body.
 I can only guess that the same thing happened to my Browning boots as well,  I still use Snow Seal on the leather uppers but I mix hot bees wax with a little tallow to form a paste and us that on the seems, so far so good.
In youth we learn,   with age we understand.

Offline wolfy

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Re: bee's wax and leather
« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2017, 12:48:55 PM »
Like me, one of my hunting buddies (the one that broke my Buck 110 folder) had always used SnoSeal on all of his boots, too.  He bought a pair of Browning's lightweight upland bird boots made from kangaroo leather and the instructions that came in the box said to use nothing, but Browning's silicone spray waterproofing on them.  He scoffed at the instructions and used our old standby SnoSeal instead.  The next pheasant season rolled around and halfway through the first 80 acre patch of cut milo, the sole fell completely off one boot......moral of the story: Don't use SnoSeal on boots that are held together with adhesives and ALWAYS FOLLOW DIRECTIONS! :coffee:
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Augustus McCrea.....Texas Ranger      Lonesome Dove, TX

Offline upthecreek

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Re: bee's wax and leather
« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2017, 04:41:09 PM »
Axes Rock!