Author Topic: choosing stain and going natural  (Read 547 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline hayshaker

  • Whetstone +
  • **
  • Posts: 864
choosing stain and going natural
« on: December 22, 2016, 06:47:40 PM »
choosing a stain can be difficult at times. woods behave different at times .
for instance use one stain on oak and the same stain on say curly birch or curly maple
and see the differences all with the same stain. many custom knifemakers are not as hamperd
with such issues. cause they tend to use dark exotic woods that need no stain or use such
material as g-10' micarta' spalted dragons breath whatever. i happen to like minnwax) gunstock
on curly maple for the orange highlights it gives, and redoak minnwax again on curly birch for the brown
it gives to the wood. every MFG has thier own recipie if you will. so results will vary one company from another.


i always try to rip a thin stick of whatever material i'm plannning to use as a stain sample,
so i can see what it looks like before hand, i then write the stain color and MFG on the end of the stick and save it.
i have 2' scandi ground shorties bout 7'in O/A one in olivewood the other in curlymaple. i have one side of the scales
settin up in epoxy till morning i'll trim out in morning and do the other side. then by satuarday i can start hand sanding
the handles. some times useing just plain tungoil no stain works quite well too. depends on wood and my mood.


so what are some of the stins you use and why? don't get mw wrong i would like to try some time some really exotic
stuff but at 40'00 a book matching set of scales some aussie type burl i saw online 40'00 bucks OUCH! ah someday
right now i don't feel my skill sets warrant such extravagence mabey when i'm better at it.

Offline Unknown

  • Water Stone
  • ***
  • Posts: 3260
  • Alcholocost of Gibber-jabber
Re: choosing stain and going natural
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2016, 07:29:14 PM »
I hardly ever use stain. I just don't like it because it most often looks like stain. imho, whatever wood you choose, if it is good enough for scales, can be appreciated for what it is- plain or fancy grain. That said I like aniline dye. It is all but dry when the alcohol evaporates (makes it harder to use on large surfaces but isn't any trouble for small items) dyes give you bright and clear colors that don't obscure the grain like pigments. Also the choices are not limited to wood tones, also red, blue, yellow etc.
...don't go thinking you know me.
                                                  -Unknown

Offline Dano

  • Diamond Stone
  • ****
  • Posts: 5009
Re: choosing stain and going natural
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2016, 12:03:11 PM »
I like and agree with what Unknown said, a lot of the woods can be appreciated in their natural appearance.  That said, you're right especially with the different Maples.  I read quite a write up on tiger stripe Maple and the process the maker goes through to get the effects.   Quite a bit of work but the results are stunning.  I'll try to find it and PM you the link.  As I recall it involved two different minwax stains and a lot of sanding in between coats...

Offline hayshaker

  • Whetstone +
  • **
  • Posts: 864
Re: choosing stain and going natural
« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2016, 12:37:50 PM »
thanks dano i'll wait for that sound.s good