PINE TAR

[wolfy]

On tool handles....



.....and rifle stocks.

[Quenchcrack]

Interesting.  I have been using BLO on my hammer handles for years.  Lyman recommends applying BLO or Birchwood Casey Tru-oil to their Trade Gun stocks too.  In fact, if applied to a hot piece of iron, it will caramelize and leave a very nice shiny finish that is very weather resistant.  But while I have heard of putting pine tar on baseball bat handles, I have never heard of it applied to firearm stocks.  I assume it is not sticky?  How often do you renew it?

[wsdstan]

Interesting.  I have used BLO on some wooden handled garden tools that I tend to leave outside and maybe adding pine tar would work better. 

[wolfy]

Interesting.  I have been using BLO on my hammer handles for years.  Lyman recommends applying BLO or Birchwood Casey Tru-oil to their Trade Gun stocks too.  In fact, if applied to a hot piece of iron, it will caramelize and leave a very nice shiny finish that is very weather resistant.  But while I have heard of putting pine tar on baseball bat handles, I have never heard of it applied to firearm stocks.  I assume it is not sticky?  How often do you renew it?

Very seldom, if ever......when the pine tar/linseed oil/turpentine mix is applied liberally and then heated to the point of it's actually catching on fire, it sinks into the wood very well....in other words, it becomes part of the wood itself rather than just sitting on the surface.  Nicks and even deeper scratches will barely be noticeable in a casual inspection.  Sharper scratches can be sanded down and rarely will the sanded area need more than a quick application of the basic mix to blend back in perfectly with the original finish.

[Unknown]

whatever those are: i cant see them.

i use pine tar on some of my axe handles but dont know how to burn that mix in. sounds devilish

[wolfy]

Whatever what are?  The videos?    I assume everybody can see them because nobody else has mentioned a problem.

After application, just use a propane torch to heat things up good.  The goal is a high heat to the flashpoint of the mix without actually charring the wood.....the wood surface-pores become more open and the finish becomes thinner or less viscous with more actual penetration.  Try it on something like a hammer handle first before tackling that old Mosin-Nagant.....but you couldn't hurt the looks of either one of those if you did screw up a little.     My guess is, you'll really like what you end up with.

[Unknown]

ive had trouble with vids not showing when others can apparently see them fine. Then, later, somehow they appear.

I dont have a mosin. Probably not going to torch my 6.5mm Swedish mauser.  ill look on YT later for a full recipe. Ive been putting off 70 bucks for a new torch, but i have a shower valve i need to replace so sooner or later ill be mapping it out.(mapp gas that is)

[randyt]

that's awesome, I won't be able to watch until morning but it looks good. Wolfy, is that your channel?

[wolfy]

No, I don't have one, but if I did I might sound pretty close to this old coot!     We do wear the same style of caps and I like the cut of his jib!      His channel is called 'logcabinlooms' .....lots of good advice from a common ol' country boy.

[randyt]

I figured you were a cap and bib overalls wearing old coot, can't say where I got that idea.

[xj35s]

Common Ol' Country Boy, Hmmm, That might more better explain me than redneck...

I have a new axe handle and it looks like a very fine layer of something. polyurethane or just lacquer? I'll have to fine sand it and tar it. Great post!!

[Unknown]

I never have liked the term redneck.

XJ, if you have some lacquer thinner; it removes the finish easier than sanding.

[Sarge]

I don't like 'redneck' or 'hillbilly' ... I prefer Appalachian American 

[wsdstan]

Appalachian American has a nice ring to it. 

[Quenchcrack]

I call myself a Euro-American.