Well, I got a bit ahead of myself before I remembered I was supposed to take pictures.
Anyhow, what I do is stack the brass and glue the two pieces with a drop of CA glue to hold them, then drill through the pin holes in the knife, adding brass pins as I go to keep everything aligned. I read somewhere you are supposed to use at least three pins, so I used 3 1/8" diameter brass pins. after all the holes are drilled, pop the two pieces of brass apart, and set the grinder table to whatever angle you wish (I used 30 degrees) to bevel the front of the bolsters.
I work my way up to about 600 grit on the grinder and then buff the fronts till they shine. Then I use a taper reamer to ream the inside of the holes, making sure not to ream all the way through. You want a good portion of the hole to be a straight 1/8" diameter, and then widening out towards the outside face of the bolster. This gives the pins a place to expand and lock the bolster in place.
You will want to cut the pins so they are about 1 diameter longer than the thickness of the blade and bolsters. So if you are using 1/8" pins and the knife and bolsters are 5/8" thick, then you will want the pins to be 3/4" long so that 1/16" sticks out on either side. Chamfer the ends of the pins to help prevent them from splitting as you peen them.
I use a small ball peen hammer to peen the pins, flipping the blade over every so often, giving the pins a good beating. They are impossible to see with the blade rough sanded but they might appear later on as you progress through the grits to final polish. It takes practice to get them perfect. I hope I got them as close as possible this time around but you never know.
Anyhow, in the pic you can see a couple of dents in the front edge of the bolster from misses while peening. the will be gone as I thin the knife while shaping the handle. The next step will be grinding the edge bevel before mounting the scales. If I mounted them first I'd have no place to clamp the jig...
