Bushlore Topics > Bushlore and Outdoor Skills

HONING STEELS

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wolfy:
Rather than derail the thread on the merits of carbon vs. stainless Opinels that we've been having here the past day or two, I thought I'd add this video from Lonnie of Far North Bush  8) on the advantages associated with the honing steel vs. always resorting to abrasives to bring an edge back.  I REALLY like a good honing steel for setting an edge back upright again.....it saves wearing away good knife steel and is a very fast and effective way of restoring a shaving-sharp knife edge. :thumbsup:

Electric Cowboy:
Wolfy, I use a steel on my kitchen knives and convex edged knives.
To keep my Scandi's tuned up I use a Strop.
Just my thoughts........... .....
Side note, after hearing your praise on the opinel 8,
I got one................ ............like it!

wolfy:
EC, you may be the only person in recorded history that ever took my advice on anything!  THANKS! :cheers:

Unknown:
I saw a bit of bias in his newsprint technique. 1. low effort push cut only tears the paper 2. some mixed effort pushing and slicing 3. dedicated effort to slice the newsprint.

That said I believe steels work better on lower hardness steels. Think about it like this, the metal that forms the actual edge is tiny-thin(less than a micrometer). How many time can you fold and straighten that back before metal fatigue breaks it off.
  Not to mention cutting abrasive materials, and most are more or less, will unsharpen the edge. you will have to use abrasives to thin the metal eventually, but 2 years? I can dull a knife in 20 minutes of spoon whittling. Whether I stop to sharpen is whether I need peak performance or not.

The only steels I have are ribbed. Funny enough 3-4 days ago I gave it a try once again and no slice on tomato. I could see that it was putting scratch marks on the patina from going too low on some passes. Maybe I needed to do it longer. About 1 minute on a true Wash_ita  and the knife would slice that mater paper thin.  I have so many knives and the wear from abrasive sharpening so minimal in terms of loss that I guess I just don't want to learn how to use one.

wolfy:
I don't like striated or ribbed sharpening steels.....it's strange that they are about the only ones that normally come with sets of kitchen knives, too. :shrug:    I agree with you that Lonnie's technique is not quite 'up to snuff' or the way I do it, but it's as good as any I found in a quick search.  He is much too rough & imprecise or should I say, 'enthusiastic' in his method.  His is not truly a SMOOTH steel, either.....they are harder to find, but are very commonly used in packing houses and butcher shops.  They are made from smooth stainless steel and look like they are chromed.  They will pit if not kept dry and oiled and once they pit they will do damage to a precision edge.  Sometimes they can be brought back if you catch a rust spot before it deepens....a good piece of sanding belt looped over the steel and stroked lengthwise MANY times will sometimes take a very shallow pit away.  I will do that occasionally anyway....just to give the steel a bit of 'tooth' to help grab the kife's edge a little more vigorously.

I don't cut anything that I would call 'abrasive' with my hunting or kitchen knives, so metal loss is not a problem with them.  I save those chores for my SAK or cheap Rough Rider pocket knives.....heck, I've even been known to use a file on them! :[     They are made for use and abuse. ;)

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